If you smell gas, stop here
A faint whiff when a burner first lights is normal. A persistent smell of gas is not. If you notice one, do not turn any burner, switch or light on or off, do not use your phone inside, and leave the home. Call Southwest Gas or 911 once you are outside. Nothing else in this article applies until a gas leak has been ruled out.
With that covered, most gas range problems are mechanical or electrical, not gas leaks, and many can be narrowed down with simple, safe checks.
How a gas range lights
Understanding the system makes troubleshooting easier. Cooktop burners on most modern ranges use spark ignition: turning a knob closes a switch, a spark module sends high voltage to the electrode at each burner, and the spark lights gas flowing through the burner ports. The oven usually uses a hot-surface igniter, a glowing element that heats up and allows a safety valve to open once it draws enough current. Older ranges may still have standing pilot lights.
Cooktop problems and what to try
A burner will not light, but you hear clicking
The spark is happening, but gas is not reaching it or is not mixing properly.
- Turn the burner off and let the cooktop cool.
- Lift off the grate, cap and burner head. Make sure the cap is seated flat and centered; a cap sitting crooked is a very common cause.
- Clean the burner head and ports with warm water and a soft brush. Clear clogged ports with a straightened paper clip or needle, never a toothpick that can break off inside.
- Dry everything completely before reassembly. Water in the ports keeps the burner from lighting.
A burner will not stop clicking
Continuous clicking after the burner has lit, or with the knob off, usually means moisture or spilled food has reached the igniter switch or spark electrode. Unplug the range and let the cooktop dry for a day or two. If clicking continues, the knob's switch or the spark module may have failed, both of which are typical repairs.
No click and no spark on any burner
Check that the range is plugged in and the outlet has power. Gas ranges still need a 120-volt outlet for ignition, clock and controls. If the outlet works and nothing sparks, the spark module or a shared switch may be at fault.
Weak, uneven or yellow flames
Partly blocked ports produce uneven flame rings. Clean the burner as described above. Persistent yellow flames, lifting flames or soot on pots need professional attention; do not adjust gas orifices or air shutters yourself.
Oven problems and what to try
The oven will not heat at all
Look through the broiler drawer or remove the oven floor panel if your model allows it, and watch the igniter while the oven calls for heat.
- The igniter glows but no flame appears within a minute or two. This is the classic sign of a weak igniter. It still glows but no longer draws enough current to open the gas safety valve. Igniters are a very common oven repair.
- The igniter does not glow. The igniter may have burned out, or the control or wiring is not sending power to it.
- The oven lights and then goes out. A failing igniter, a faulty temperature sensor or control can cause this.
The oven heats unevenly or runs hot or cold
Check with an oven thermometer before assuming a fault. If the temperature is clearly off, the temperature sensor, the igniter cycling, or a door gasket that leaks heat are the usual causes.
The broiler does not work
Many gas ranges have a separate broil burner and igniter. The same checks apply.
What you can safely do yourself
- Clean burner heads, caps and ports, and dry them thoroughly.
- Check that the range is plugged in and the outlet works.
- Confirm the gas shutoff valve behind the range is open, especially after the range has been moved for cleaning.
- Replace a burned-out oven light bulb with the type specified for ovens.
- Check that the anti-tip bracket is engaged. It prevents the range from tipping forward if a child stands on the open door.
Leave the following to a professional: disconnecting or reconnecting the gas supply, replacing gas valves or regulators, adjusting orifices, and anything involving the electrical connections inside the range.
Repair or replace?
Gas ranges are long-lived appliances; estimates commonly put them around 15 years. Most of their failures involve inexpensive wear parts:
- Usually worth repairing: igniters, spark modules, burner switches, burner heads and caps, temperature sensors, door gaskets, door hinges and broil igniters.
- Weigh carefully: electronic control boards and touchpads on older ranges, where parts availability becomes the deciding factor.
- Often replacement: a rusted or cracked oven cavity, a badly damaged cooktop surface, warped burner box, or multiple failures on a range well past its expected life.
If you are replacing, consider the installation. Many valley homes have gas service to the kitchen, but all-electric homes are common too, and some homeowners are curious about induction. Changing fuel types means new utility work: an electric range needs a 240-volt circuit, and the old gas line must be capped safely. Our article on electric range repair versus replacement covers the other side of that decision.
Monsoon season and gas ranges
Because ignition is electric, a power outage disables the spark igniters. On many ranges you can carefully light a cooktop burner with a long match during an outage; check your owner's manual first. Most gas ovens with hot-surface igniters will not work without power, and you should not try to light them manually. After a power surge, if spark ignition or the clock stops working, the control board or spark module may have been damaged.
When to call a technician
Call for service if burners still will not light after cleaning and drying, the clicking will not stop, the oven igniter glows without lighting, flames are yellow or sooty, or the range shows an error code. ProFix Appliance Repair Las Vegas provides gas range repair and oven repair for all major brands, with same-day appointments available when booked early.